3BOTTLES for August... Chardonnay
August 7, 2009 at 9:55 am by Lex
August 3BOTTLES: Chardonnay is on sale now.
Subscribers can swing by to pick up their sets (sorry, no shipping
until September: it's stinkin' hot!) or we'll keep them cool for
you in our cellar. If you're not currently a 3BOTTLES wine club
member, we do have a few stray sets you can buy if you act fast.
$55 per, lots of awesome text included (see below), and more than a
few glasses of good wine to accompany it.
1. What to
Plant? When the wine boom in the late 1960s and 1970s
began in the countries we call the New World, the winemakers in
places like California, Australia, South Africa, Argentina, and
many more had a dilemma. What white grape should they plant?
Chardonnay was one of only a few choices, because there were few
famous white grapes at this point in history and the white
Burgundies of France were probably the most celebrated.
2. The Brand... Chardonnay has achieved success at
every price level from the low end industrial plonk to the very
most expensive single vineyard white Burgundies… and every
point in between those. The word Chardonnay has become a powerful
global brand as big in some demographics as Nike or Tide. The grape
is easy to grow, ripens well, and offers the winemaker a neutral
canvas with which to create a wine. And consumers love the soft,
easy drinking style of Chardonnay.
3. Food Chardonnay... The sneering about
Chardonnay by the wine cognoscenti, which is similar to that
sentiment toward Merlot, is somewhat unfair. Here’s the back
story… I have heard them called McChardonnays as reference
both to their prolific offerings which flooded the market and to
the mediocrity of the wine. Many of the wines were overripe and
over-oaked, but they took our Coca-Cola drinking nation by storm.
The cognoscenti were embarrassed by their native land, and demanded
we drink ABC… anything but Chardonnay. Often these
high-alcohol and sweetish tasting wines overwhelmed food and
inspired the term “cocktail wine.” The typical Cocktail
Chardonnay is grown in hot sunny climates, developing considerable
ripeness and weight. The sugars in the grapes translate into
alcohol in the wine. If winemakers use too much oak aging (often to
mask the defects in the wine) the resultant wine turn into big,
buttery wine with little subtlety and complexity. These wines are a
disaster paired with food but serve well as a cocktail. This
month's 3BOTTLES could be called "Food Chardonnay."
Lex's Take on Chardonnay...
There are really three points I want to make about Chardonnay
in introducing the subject this month.
1. What to
Plant? When the wine boom in the late 1960s and 1970s
began in the countries we call the New World, the winemakers in
places like California, Australia, South Africa, Argentina, and
many more had a dilemma. What white grape should they plant?
Chardonnay was one of only a few choices, because there were few
famous white grapes at this point in history and the white
Burgundies of France were probably the most celebrated.
Lex Alexander




