Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina Rose Rubentis

The Wine... Hondarribi Zuri and Hondarribi Belta are the improbably named component grapes in this wine. Chalky minerality, envigorating effervescence, and faint citrus rind fruit aromas define the wine. This is a regional product that at first sip might seem too exotic to travel well. But the appeal of this thing meets an almost universal need: a flavorful, light, and palate-cleaning wine to accompany bar foods, or to get you ready for whatever's next on the menu. Small salty fish are an appropriate pairing, or fresh, firm-fleshed green olives.

The Land... Getariako Txakolina is a tiny vineyard region on the northern Atlantic coast of Iberia. This is Basque Country, a region relatively close to Rioja this is making wines that manage to remain millions of miles from anything else bottled in Spain. Picpoul de Pinet from France's Languedoc is an imperfect comparison, but there are similarities, even beyond the obvious CO2.

The Man... Ignacio Ameztoi is the seventh generation of his family to farm in Getariako. His vines are worked using sustainable farming practices. Apparently you can see San Sebastian from his land. Generally, Ameztoi ferments his grapes in stainless steel to retain the carbon dioxide created by alcoholic fermentation in his finished wines.