Berger Gruner Veltliner 1L

The Man... Erich Berger has provided Kremstal and Austria with a reference point for simple quality white wine. His 18 hectare estate makes at least a half dozen tasty wines, but the popular favorite is his crown-capped liter bottle Gruner Veltliner, a wine that gives a clear picture of the exuberant, flavor-laden possibilites of this essentially Austrian varietal. Erich and Maria Berger bottle over 5,000 cases of wine per annum, but still supply remains sporadic. Happily, at current prices a case can be affordably stowed for the large-scale gatherings of tomorrow.

The Land... Kremstal used to be lumped together with the neighboring Kamptal valley. In recent years it has gained recognition as a separate entity, an area capable of making distinct and interesting wines that can provide as much valus as any wine made in Austria today. Fans of Wachau whites take note: stylistic similarities exist, and prices are almost always lower in Kremstal. The area is as warm as Wachau, and many of its best farmers bottle wines that are worthy of (pehaps even need) cellaring. Thanks to a remarkable number of seriously dedicated growers in the region, world-class white wines are thick on the ground in Kremstal.

The Wine... Light, faintly herbal and as refreshing like minerallly cold spring water. It tastes good. It makes you want to drink more. After a glass it makes you happy that the bottle is large. I want trout with Berger Gruner Veltliner, but in fairness I want trout approximately 33% of the time. Still, it seems a good pairing, even better when tender asparagus are in season.