Camillo Donati Lambrusco

The Wine... Lambrusco is in a crazy place in 2009. The wine seems to be escaping its grocery store stigma, in spite of the fact that plenty of industrial and uninspiring Lambrusco is still bottled. Replacing this formerly negative image is a growing affection for the wine among hipsters and wine nerds, drinkers who are daring enough to reach outside of commonly popular regions to Italy to find better value and unsullied flavor. I am happy that traditionalists in Emilia Romagna persevered in making this traditional type of wine even when agribusiness and public apathy were threatening to eclipse their distinctive product. Camillo Donati fits this mold. His estate has been around since 1930, and currently farms 11 hectares of high-elevation vines.

The Style... Lambrusco should be a chance to understand how naturally fermented wines from previous centuries tasted, and felt. Typically a little fizzy. Unlike many Lambruscos, Camillo Donati's is dry. Traditionally bottle-fermented, the wine needs little additional preservatives. A sediment is common in this type of production. The wine is biodynamically farmed in small quantities and has real intensity, traits sadly foreign to the area in the 21st century. The wine is from severely pruned vines, labor necessary to reduce the Lambrusco Maestri grape's naturally high yields.

The Food... Emilia-Romagna deserves to have great food reds like this one. The local wares are ridiculous. Balsamico, Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and the flour for many of Italy's best pastas come from wheat grown in the region. Buy a bottle and see how easy great Italian dining can be.