Joe Dressner is a formidable bouncer. For a guy with a remarkable sense of humor, he's pretty no-nonsense when the need arises. He defended the entrance to his NYC trade show with admirable determination: the event was invite only, and Joe was determined to keep his airy and light tasting room from filling up with unwelcome riff-raff. There was bound to be something of a crush of humanity even without interlopers. The wines brought over by Joe Dressner's French and Italian farmers are top class, the kind of quality that will attract crowds, even if half the wine nerds in NYC weren't in love with Arianna Occhipinti.

This wine tasting was worth the long day of travel. And we rewarded ourselves with quick meals squeezed in around the work. Brioche French Toast to provide ballast beforehand, tender polpi and meatballs to celebrate discovery of good new things after. Here's a list of the wine highlights from my notes, either here or arriving at 3CUPS in upcoming weeks.

2007 Luneau-Papin Pierre de la Grange (3CUPS price $12.99) Fine texture. Mineral. Dry. This wine is a steal. It's getting warm outside...

2007 Luneau Papin Clos des Allees (3CUPS price $14.99) This wine is from the plot in front of the winery according to Pierre Luneau-Papin's son. The soil type here is schist. The wine is rounder than the Pierre de la Grange. This wine tends to be a favorite of mine.

2002 Luneau Papin Semper Excelsior Clos des Noelles (we may never sell this because it would retail over $20 but wow) Amazing fruit aromas. Honey. Peach. If you believe Muscadet is fruitless, here's empirical proof to the contrary.

2008 Occhipinti SP68 Rosso Vittoria (here in a few months, roughly $20) SP68 is the name of a highway near Arianna's home town of Vittoria. This wine was fragrant and basically terrific. Probably the discovery of the tasting for me.

2007 Rosso Sicilia Frappato (3CUPS price $32.99) Smells like lemons and wild red berries. Light. perfect. 2007 Alessandra Bera Barbera la Verrane (probably low-$20s retail if we buy it) Smells great. Dark berries and violets. Pleasant faint prickle of acidity. A red for food! A winner.

NV Franck Peillot Montagnieu Brut NV (3CUPS price $18.99) So good. Fresh like spring flowers. Delicious. A favorite white for the day. It's a blend of Altesse, Chardonnay and Mondeuse, in case you are interested.

2007 Eric Texier Brezeme Cotes du Rhone rouge (we have the 06 right now, will be $20) This red steals the show. Classic Northern Rhone aromas. Delicate. Violets. Spices. Light on the palate, fresh, good.

2007 Eric Texier Vaison la Romaine Cotes du Rhone Villages (will be low $20s when we buy it) Way better than Cotes-du Rhone wines are. Smells awesome. Farmed biodynamically. Medium-weight and dry, with purity of flavor that makes this wine a must-have item for us.

2007 Eric Texier Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages (similar price when it arrives to the previous item) Smells like berry gummy candy. Fun.

2005 Eric Texier Cote Rotie Vieilles Vignes (way pricey if we buy it, $70+?) Smells like red Burgundy, maybe Chambolle? Made from Petite Sereine, the older (truer / better) Syrah.

2006 Montesecondo Chianti Classico ($24, maybe less in weeks to come) Silvio Messana is taking all the wires out of his vineyards, opting instead for the Albarello method of vine training. He said this helps him think of the vines as individuals, not a homogenous mass. He says it may be a little more work, but it will add to his enjoyment of vineyard labor as it is moving a step closer to how he wants things to be at Montesecondo. Organic now, moving toward biodynamic.

2007 Campi di Fonterenza Sangiovese ($25+ when it arrives) Smells great - red berries. Refreshing, with some tannin on the finish. This wine is done 100% in stainless steel. Sisters Margherita and Francesca Padovani do everything at this six-acre organic estate.

2007 Luca Rogna Dolcetto d'Alba ($16-ish when it arrives, which will be soon) This is a tasty treat. Purchase. Drink. Don't fret.