Fontodi Vin Santo
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Italy, Tuscany, Chianti Classico
2001
Price: $39.99
The Estate... The Fontodi estate was purchased by the Manetti
family in the 1960's. Looking south from this estate in the village of
Panzano in Chianti, vineyards stretch down in a great arc almost as far
as the eye can see. These may be Tuscany's greatest vineyards, and
perhaps the best place to grow Sangiovese on earth. Incidentally, many
of the tile roofs that blanket the historic buildings of Florence were
made by the ancestors of the Giovanni Manetti who currently run this
winery.
The Land... Chianti is at the heart of it all. Italy's most famous wine has a reputation that’s traveled the full arc from standard-bearer to goat several times since it’s zone was established in the fourteenth century. The original core of Chianti is the Classico zone, which is surrounded by modern subzones that sprawl across central Tuscany, bearing suffixes like Montalbano, Colli Senesi and Colli Fiorentini. The creation and expansion of these Chianti suburbs originated from economic pressure channeled through politicians into border gerrymandering that had little to do with quality and a lot to do with the ease of selling a bottle labelled as Chianti, often at a slightly elevated price in comparison to, say, Montecucco Rosso. Wines of satellite Chianti zones can be exceptional, but it would be a stretch to say they share the terroir of the original nucleus. The old timers had a reason for their demarcation.
The Land... Chianti is at the heart of it all. Italy's most famous wine has a reputation that’s traveled the full arc from standard-bearer to goat several times since it’s zone was established in the fourteenth century. The original core of Chianti is the Classico zone, which is surrounded by modern subzones that sprawl across central Tuscany, bearing suffixes like Montalbano, Colli Senesi and Colli Fiorentini. The creation and expansion of these Chianti suburbs originated from economic pressure channeled through politicians into border gerrymandering that had little to do with quality and a lot to do with the ease of selling a bottle labelled as Chianti, often at a slightly elevated price in comparison to, say, Montecucco Rosso. Wines of satellite Chianti zones can be exceptional, but it would be a stretch to say they share the terroir of the original nucleus. The old timers had a reason for their demarcation.
